Project Eight: Sofa or Hall Table.
Difficulty Rating: Intermediate
Types of Pocket Hole Joinery Used:
leg and rail joinery;
right angle corner;
drawer box construction; and
T - joint.
This sofa table, Project 8 in the pocket hole plans book, calls for edge joining the top which is almost 48" long. Although, edge joining with Kreg pocket screws is easier than glue and bar clamp joining, or biscuit joining, combining 48" by any method is not simple. This is one of the reasons we rated this plan as 'Intermediate'.
There are two design elements that also make this an 'Intermediate" project.
This wood table plan calls for tapered legs, which are best done on a table saw. However, you could simplify this step by using straight legs, or by purchasing already formed legs.
The second element is routing the bottom edge of the table top. If you don't have a router, you could simplify this step by just rounding the edges with a hand planer.
If you make this table from hardwood as called for in the plan, you would need both 1 1/4" and 1" fine thread, Kreg screws.
If you make this table from pine, you would need coarse thread, Kreg pocket screws in 1 1/4" and 1" sizes.
This framed mirror, the ninth project in the pocket hole plans book, could be made with the
pocket hole plugs
as a design element. OR, you could make your pocket holes on the back, and have a plain front.
The plans calls for an curved top rail. You could simplify this by using a straight rail.
We rated this an 'Intermediate' project because you need to rout the inside opening of the face frame to create a "rabbet" for your mirror to sit in.
If you make this clock with hardwood, you will need to use fine thread, Kreg pocket screws. Coarse thread, Kreg screws would be the right choice if you make this with pine. Both types would need to be 1 1/4" long.
This beautiful clock plan from the pocket hole plans book, uses the contrasting pocket hole plugs as a design feature. But, you could just as easily put the pocket holes on the back of the face frame.
The case for this wall clock plan is basically the same as constructing a drawer box. Then you set that upright, add a face frame, and some trim at the top and the bottom.
We rated this wall clock as an 'Intermediate' wood working project for several reasons:
The face frame needs to be routed to hold the front glass pieces.
The back of each of your side pieces needs a "rabbet". That rabbet will hold the backboard in place.
The trim for the top involves both mitered corners and routed edges.
The trim for the bottom also involves routing.
The circle for the clock face needs a routed edge, too.
You could simplify this woodworking plan by using sharp edged boards as the trim for both the top and bottom.
You will need both fine thread and coarse thread 1 1/4"
The author of the pocket hole plans book calls this the "Child's Wall Clock", and it would be very suitable for making with a child.
There are only 3 types of pieces to cut. Assembly gets a little tricky as you add the last pieces to the octagon. You don't have room to drive the Kreg pocket screws with your drill, so you have to switch to using a ratchet to hold the square head drill bit.
You will use fine thread, 1 1/4 Kreg pocket screws in this wood wall clock.
To review the first 3 plans in "The Pocket Hole Drilling Jig Project Book", including the:
Free standing base cabinet;
Tall bookcase: and
click on the quilt rack icon.
To review the next 4 plans in the pocket hole plans book by Danny Proulx, including the:
Chest of Drawers;
Kitchen display and storage cabinet: and
Coffee and end tables,
click on the window bench icon.
We recommend this book to anyone owns a Kreg pocket jig!
Originally published at $24.99 in 2004, it is now available for much less. Click on the cover icon to find this book at Amazon.com.