Project One: Face Frame and Case Joinery.
Difficulty Rating: Intermediate/Beginner
Types of Pocket Hole Joinery Used:
right angle joints
drawer box construction
With this project, you will create a free-standing base cabinet using face-frame and case pocket hole joinery.
This is a beginner project, except for the drawer front and cabinet door. These require a table saw to cut 'grooves' and 'tenons.' Bar clamps would also be needed to assemble the door and drawer front.
You could keep this project at the beginner level, by buying the door and drawer front from one of the big box stores or IKEA.
The top of this cabinet uses pocket hole edge banding with mitered corners. For beginner projects we try to avoid any mitered corners.
Again, you could simplify the edge banding by putting both the front and back edges all the way across. Then, you could fit the two side bands between those. All four of your edge pieces would only have straight cross cuts.
If your skill level doesn't quite match the 1st project in this pocket hole plans book, move on. There are others that are easier.
This plan calls for 1 1/4"
Kreg pocket hole screws.
If you are putting those screws into hardwood, you will want to to use the fine thread pocket screws. If you are putting those screws into pressboard or plywood, you will want to use the coarse thread pocket screws.
The second project for your Kreg pocket hole jig in the pocket hole plans book is a tall bookcase that is built primarily with veneer covered pressboard. The only pocket hole joint is connecting pieces at right angles.
All the exposed edges of the pressboard are covered with iron-on wood veneer. The author recommends using a flush trim router to smooth to even out the edges of the veneer.
If you don't have a router, you will want to buy a hand-edge trimmer. Otherwise, the veneer may split along the grain.
We rated this an intermediate project for two reasons:
The trim on both the top and bottom include mitered corners; and
Either a table saw or router are needed to cut the grooves that hold the back of the case in place.
At a height of 80", it could be difficult to cut a straight groove on each of the two side pieces.
There are simpler ways to add a back to a bookcase. You may want to check out other
pocket hole bookcase plans.
You will need both coarse thread and fine thread Kreg pocket hole screws for this pocket hole plan. You will use the coarse thread for almost all of the bookcase because you will be putting the screws into pressboard. However, the trim at the top and the bottom is made from hardwood, so you will want to use the fine thread Kreg
pocket hole screws.
If the tall bookshelf doesn't suit you, there are nine other projects in this pocket hole plans book.
This quilt rack is our favorite Kreg pocket hole jig project in the book! It features contrasting pocket hole plugs as a distinctive design element. The pendulum clock plan, Project Ten in the pocket hole plans book, also uses that technique.
The two sides pieces for this quilt rack are 12 inches wide and 32 inches long. To get wood that was wide enough the author used the customary edge joining technique with glue and bar clamps.
Use Pocket Hole Edge Joining?
As a side note, the author of this pocket hole plans book wished that he had used pocket hole edge joining, and made the contrasting pocket hole plugs as a design feature on the outside of each side piece.
The placement of the pocket holes to join the side pieces would take some planning, so as not to interfere with the arcs at the top and bottom, the top rack, and the stretcher at the bottom. That sounds like a interesting project!
Make This a Beginner Project!
The simplest way to get the sides is to use solid pine panels that are already glued. You would need 2 such panels. The smallest size is 3/4" thick, 12" wide and 36" long, which is more than big enough for this pocket hole plan. By using these panels you could have this quilt rack ready for stain and finish in just a couple of hours.
If you make this quilt rack with the solid pine panels and pine boards, you would use coarse thread 1 1/4" Kreg pocket hole screws.
If you use hardwood, as the plan callsf or, you will have much better results using the fine thread Kreg pocket hole screws.
These plans call for 1 1/2" boards for the three rack pieces at the top. Our experience with narrow boards splitting when driving the pocket hole screws, has taught us to use 2 1/2" wide boards as much as possible. Substituting the wider boards for the rack does not affect the design or the usefulness of this project. BUT, it will reduce the headaches and frustration for you!
To review the next 4 plans in the pocket hole plans book by Danny Proulx, including the:
Chest of Drawers;
Kitchen display and storage cabinet: and
Coffee and end tables,
click on the window bench icon.
For our review of the last 4 plans in Danny Proulx's pocket hole plans book, including the:
Sofa or hall table;
Pendulum wall clock: and
Octagonal wall clock,
click on the pendulum clock icon.
We bought a used copy of this book for about $16.00. Originally published at $24.99 in 2004, it is now available for much less. Click on the cover icon to find this book at Amazon.com.